Trader Joe’s $5 Mini Potted Roses — keeping them alive and blooming for months

I recently (over the last 2 years? wow time flies) discovered that you can keep the Trader Joe’s $5 mini roses alive for months.

TJs_rose

I killed my first (overenthusiastic-buying-spree) batch of 4 potted roses by over-watering and not knowing what spider mites are. By the time I decided to look up whether they were a problem, the plants were pretty much goners — there were spider webs on the plants, which is a sign of major infestation. Despite my best efforts to soap them down, they slowly died.

I learned from that experience. This time, I took them out of the pot they came in right away, and put them in bigger pots so their roots could grow and the water could drain. When I first took them out of the pots, the roots were super bunched up.

I also freaked out and thought that the normal fuzz on the plants was a mildew infestation, and cut off all the flowers buds! I’d read that it was far better to prune the roses (they can grow back from twigs) and to not treat them too delicately. Fortunately the rose sprouted more flowers in a few weeks.

very normal fuzziness
very normal fuzziness

Pots

The first thing to do is to re-pot the roses in a bigger pot, and put a tray underneath so that the water can drain out — then, when you water, make sure to empty out the water and not let the roots rot in water.

The re-potting procedure is simple. Fill the new pot about 1/3 full. Tilt the old pot sideways, then shake it gently / tape the bottom until the plant slides out. Then you can kind of muss up the bottom to “de-compact the soil / root ball”. Put the rose in and gently sprinkle in soil to fill the sides, then gently push on the soil with your fingertips. Fill in a bit more soil. Finally, put some more soil until the top of the soil is ~3 cm from the top of the pot — this is so there’s enough space to water the roses. (these are all rules-of-thumb, adjust according to what seems reasonable for the plant).

Another important thing was to step up the size of the pots. It got kinda expensive, and I kept running out of soil. Recently though, I left for 2 weeks and put two of my roses in bigger pots and left one in a smaller pot. The two plants are noticeably bigger then the other one, and the small one had a little spider mite infestation (not bad at all).

roses_begin

roses_nov

 

bigger_rose

recent_roses

From a few days ago.

(I also started growing some succulents — including some from seed! but that’s for another post)

Pruning and Dead-heading

An important thing to do, in terms of warding off insect infestations and diseases, is to keep the center of the rose fairly airy — no crossing branches, and the branches all facing mostly outward. When I first got the roses, I (somewhat aggressively) pruned them. Keep in mind that roses can sometimes grow from just shoots planted in the ground.

The pruning procedure is simple, cut each shoot right above a 5-leaf stem facing outward (well, about 3 cm above it). A new stem will grow from the “bud eye” above that stem — a little bump in the stem. I just use scissors.

You do the same for flowers that have started to wilt, so that they put their energy into more flowers.

https://www.wikihow.com/Deadhead-Roses

Bulbs

At first, since it was winter, I bought special “full spectrum” lightbulbs to encourage them to keep blooming (Interestingly, all the sources online about which “temperature” of lamp to buy was full of anecdotal recommendations on marijuana growing forums). I definitely think it helped them grow. They were $15 on four “ALZO 45W Full Spectrum CFL Light Bulb 5500K, 2800 Lumens, Daylight White Light” — they plugged into standard sockets but are a lot longer, so they stuck out of the $10 target lamp I bought. I cut up some folders to shade people from the lamps.

small_rose

Fertilizer

However, eventually they still stopped blooming even though the days were getting longer. Eventually, I decided to get some fertilizer. I spent “Miracle-Gro Rose Plant Food, 1.5-Pounds (Rose Fertilizer)”$7 on ebay, though I’ve since seen them in hardware stores and Target and other places everywhere, probably for cheaper. It wasn’t immediate, but the roses really did get a lot happier and start blooming again in 2 to 4 weeks. I just got a gallon milk jug and mixed it with water — the fertilizer is applied every 2 weeks.

Insecticide

I also bought actual insecticide to spray the roses to kill spider mites, and I’ve just got a bottle always at the ready now. I used to just use dish detergent and water, but after 3 or 4 sprays (over the course of 3 or 4 months), the roses started looking really sad. So I got $10 of “Safer Brand 5118 Insect Killing Soap – 16-Ounce Concentrate”.

I’ve been very bad about it, but you’re supposed to re-spray the insecticide after a week, since that’s when the eggs hatch. But make sure to wash the insecticide off the leaves in-between. I also considered placing towels under the leaves when I spray, to get less of the insecticide in the soil. But I decided it might be better to ensure that all the mites, including some that might be crawling around on the soil, got killed.

Watering

I recommend pouring close to the soil — what happens is that the soil will compact over time.

Flowers on water

A neat thing you can do is fill a small container with ~3 cm of water and float the rose flowers you cut off in it. They’ll last a surprisingly long time — days, maybe a week.

water

rose

Sterilizing potting soil in the oven

Recently I bought some potting soil from a hardware store. When I opened it, I discovered that there were small insects (perhaps fruit gnats?) in the soil. Since I was already having problems with spider mites (grr) on my indoor roses,

roseI decided to sterilize the soil.

It turns out to be very easy, although it requires a bit of patience. Essentially, you put the soil on a cookie tray (probably on aluminum foil). You moisten the soil (enough to be damp to the touch but not runny or squishy), then cover the tray with aluminum foil. As the soil heats, the steam from the water sterilizes the soil. When you open the aluminum foil (carefully away from you!), steam should come out. If it doesn’t, then the soil hasn’t been sterilized.

soil
people kept asking me if these were brownies

The internet say maybe 1.5 or 2 hours was enough, but I found that my oven always took something closer to 4 or 5 hours to steam the soil… :/ 180F I think is the max the internet recommends (something about releasing toxins at higher temperatures).

osil2

It’s also possible to microwave the soil in a ziplock bag with the top open for 2 or 3 minutes, or alternatively in a tupperware with a few holes in the lid for 1 or 2 minutes. I think I will definitely try this next time — the oven took HOURS.

Add Extra Hard Drive using a CD ROM Caddy (3rd drive in Thinkpad W530!)

I’m currently using a Thinkpad W530. It came with a 512GB  spinning disk hard drive, which I augmented with a 256 GB solid state drive in my mSATA slot.

Recently I decided I wanted even more space. How to add yet another hard drive to my laptop? Answer: using a “caddy” adapter that slots into where the CD drive is!

Get a normal sized (2.5”) hard drive, plop it into the caddy adapter (~$10), and stick it in your laptop where the CD drive used to be.

The caddy is *really* easy to take out on the thinkpad. No screws are involved in taking out the CD drive or putting in the new caddy — just two sliding buttons. Slide the “lock-unlock” tab and then push on the bigger tab, and the CD drive should pop out.

cd_drive_buttons_w530The one thing I struggled with was how far in to to push the hard disk into the caddy. I did need a screwdriver as a pushing tool here, and in the end the strategy was to “wiggle” the drive back and forth, by pushing on the left side with the screwdriver, then the right, and so on until it was almost flush (can barely see the connector). This should leave an opening on the back end about a finger-width wide. I filled this with a bit of foam.

cd_drive_foam_w530When the drive is pushed in far enough, there are four screws which can now be screwed through all the way in the caddy into the hard drive.

Below: one of the screws going from the caddy into the matching hole in the SSD.

cd_drive_screw_w530Below, two of the four screws that go through the caddy.

cd_drive_unscrewed_w530The screws should screw all the way down, when the hard drive is at the proper place in the caddy (holes should line up).

cd_drive_screwed_in_w530 Finally, my host is Windows 10, so I just opened “disk management”, right clicked on the new drive (if it doesn’t show up, in my case it was because I hadn’t properly pushed in the SSD all the way into the caddy), then add partition or somesuch — click  through the defaults (use format NTFS) and voila new drive.

newdiskVoila

Specificcd_drive_screw_w530s:

  • “SSD Hard Drive Caddy Tray Replacement for Lenovo Thinkpad”   for ~$10 on amazon prime.
  • “Silicon Power 512GB SSD 2.5″ 7mm (0.28″) Internal Solid State Drive”, for ~$100 on amazon prime.
  • “Samsung 256gb SSD MSATA” for ~$70 on ebay.
  • Lenovo W530 for $515 ($500 + $15 shipping) on ebay (Yes, it always says “last one available”, ignore that)

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